Alice Springs


Alice Springs, or “the Alice” is undoubtedly Australia’s most famous Outback town, renowned for its Outback characters as much as it is for the stunning environment that surrounds it. It had humble beginnings – like so many other towns in this region, it began life as a repeater station on the Overland Telegraph Line between Adelaide and Darwin, on the banks of the Todd River (named after the Superintendent of Telegraphs in Adelaide), and a spring near this river was named after his wife, Alice.

The town became known as Alice Springs only in 1933, and has grown in size considerably since 1987 when the road south to Port Augusta in South Australia was sealed and made into a highway.

The town of Alice Springs itself can come as a surprise – despite its isolated location, it is a pleasant, modern and welcoming town, with great shops, restaurants and accommodation, and visitors here will gain a true taste of life in the Outback.

As well as exploring the fascinating history of the region, from the first intrepid pioneers, to the Afghan cameleers, the flying doctors and the school of the air, there is a whole host of adventure activities on offer in the region, mainly in the spectacular MacDonnell Ranges that rise up either side of Alice Springs.

Culturally, Alice Springs and its surrounds are very important, and there are numerous places to visit, including galleries of contemporary Aboriginal art.

Located right in the heart of Australia, between the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, Alice Springs is the ideal base from which to explore the sights of Central Australia. All around Alice Springs lies the mighty Simpson Desert, which extends south towards the border with South Australia, and north west into Western Australia.

Within this harsh, arid environment are some fascinating natural treasures to explore. The desert itself is the subject of many traditional Aboriginal stories, and it is possible to join a tour with an Aboriginal guide to learn more about the spiritual significance of the area, and the Dreamtime stories that originated here.
Getting to Alice Springs

Alice Springs is around 940 miles south of Darwin, and, for the adventurous who plan to travel by car, is reached via the Explorer’s Way. Roads north to Darwin and South to Adelaide are all sealed making it a comfortable journey, but nothing takes away from the fact that it is a very very long journey. Travellers by car should ensure that they carry adequate water and food supplies, as in flood conditions even some of the better roads can become impassable. Fuel stops are readily found, but it is advisable to plan ahead and know where the next service is.

A number of coach companies operate on routes to Alice Springs, either from Darwin or Adelaide. The journey from Darwin takes around 20 hours, and slightly longer from Adelaide. There are also coaches to and from Yulara (the township that serves Uluru (Ayers Rock) – see below).

You can also get to Alice Springs by train – the Ghan service arrives each week from Adelaide on its way to Darwin.

For those looking for a quicker option, then it is easy to fly to Alice Springs using Qantas from most Australian state capitals.

Things and do and see north of Alice Springs
Harts Range: The Harts Range is home to vast cattle stations and a small Aboriginal community, and is on the route of those traveling from Alice Springs north east to the Queensland border along the Plenty Highway.

Gemtree: Located within the Harts Range, Gemtree is just a small caravan park, but is renowned for its fossicking. Keen gem-hunters can find gold, garnet and zircon here, and it is possible to have whatever you find made into jewellery here.

Tanami Desert: The Tanami Desert, a vast expanse of red sand, stretches north west from Alice Springs all the way to the border with Western Australia and beyond. It is an enormous expanse of hills and plains, and the Tanami Track is the most direct route from Alice through to the Kimberley – it is not for the faint-hearted though, and is over 650 miles long and should only be embarked upon by those with plenty of experience of four wheel driving.

North of Alice
Travelling north from Alice Springs and you will find yourself in an area of serene natural beauty, great for bushwalking, camping, fossicking for gems and 4WD adventures. Travel up the Plenty Highway, accessed off the Explorer’s Way 45 miles north of Alice Springs, and you will come to the Harts Ranges, where a 19th century gem and mineral rush took place. Here you can even try your luck fossicking for gems!

Things to do and see in the Eastern MacDonnell Range
The Eastern MacDonnell Ranges are not as well known as their Western neighbours, but nonetheless boast some spectacular scenery, wonderful walks and fascinating Aboriginal references.

Emily and Jessie Gaps Nature Park: These two gaps are of huge significance to the Arrernte Aboriginal people, and are perhaps the most important Aboriginal sites in the region as it is believed that it is from here that the caterpillars that later formed the MacDonnell Ranges came. Emily Gap is around 10 miles from Alice Springs and Jessie Gap another five miles from there.

Trephina Gorge Nature Park: Just over 40 miles from Alice Springs, and a few miles off the road, Trephina Gorge is renowned for the sheer quartzite cliffs, its rivers and creeks. There are some good walking trails around here, one of which leads to John Hayes Rockhole, a popular series of rock holes which retain water even when others have dried up.

Ross River Homestead: Eight miles further on from Trephina is the Ross River Homestead, one of the best places to stay in the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges. As well as providing accommodation and a restaurant, there are also numerous activities on offer, including bushwalking, camel safaris, horse riding and more.

N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park:
Six miles south of Ross River Homestead is N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park, best known for its 6000+ Aboriginal rock carvings.
Arltunga Historical Reserve: At the eastern extremity of the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges and around 70 miles north east of Alice Springs lies Arltunga, now a ghost town but previously a hub of the gold mining industry in the region. Gold was discovered here in 1887, and mining continued through until around 1912, when the town was abandoned. There are deserted mining sites as well as the remnants of the town to explore, and a visitor centre showcases the town’s golden past. You can also join a ranger guided tour of the mines on selected days. Accommodation at the Arltunga Hotel and Bush Resort is available.

Things to do and see in the Western MacDonnell Range
There are many spectacular chasms and gorges in the Western MacDonnell Ranges National Park, as well as numerous excellent bushwalking trails, one of the best of which is the Larapinta Trail, which offers walks of varying difficulty and length, ranging from two days to two weeks. The whole trail is around 140 miles long and takes in all the major sights and landmarks of the park, including Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ochre Pits, Ormiston Gorge, Glen Helen and Mount Sonder.

Simpsons Gap: Just 14 miles out of Alice Springs on Larapinta Drive you will come to Simpsons Gap, a gap in solid rock cut by the river. There is a permanent pool here, and you can often see rock wallabies clambering about on the rocky ridges of the gap.

Standley Chasm: 32 miles out of Alice Springs is Standley Chasm, a gap so narrow that the rock walls almost meet above your head. The gap only gets daylight to its floor for around 15 minutes each day, and the colours on the rocks are beautiful at this time – obviously this is when most visitors choose to come here. The chasm is on Aboriginal land and an entry fee applies.

Ellery Creek Big Hole:
Further on from Standley Chasm, and continuing on Namatjira Drive will take you toe Ellery Creek Big Hole, around 60 miles from Alice Springs. This is a large permanent waterhole, surrounded by high red cliffs, and is popular for swimming and picnicking. There is also a basic campsite near here, making overnight stays possible. There are some fascinating rock formations to explore on the short Dolomite walk.

Glen Helen Gorge:
Glen Helen Gorge is where the Finke River carves through the MacDonnell’s, and is comprised of quartzite. This is a popular overnight stop as there is accommodation at the Glen Helen Homestead, one of the few accommodation options in the range. Nature lovers will enjoy a visit here, as there are plenty of rock wallabies jumping about here!

Ochre Pits: Just north of Glen Helen lie the Ochre Pits, once used by the desert Aboriginal people to mine ochre pigments used in their artwork and ceremonial body decoration. There are ochres of many different shades, which are formed by iron oxide staining the limestone rocks.

Ormiston Gorge and Pound:
Ormiston Gorge is wide and rugged, and boasts some of the most breathtaking scenery in the Western MacDonnells. There is a near permanent waterhole, which is thought to be around 14 metres in depth. There are numerous well marked walking trails around the gorge.
Mount Sonder: Mount Sonder is 1380m tall, the second highest peak in the MacDonnell Ranges, and one of the highest peaks in the Northern Territory as a whole. It was named after a German botanist, and can be climbed as part of the Larapinta Trail walk (see above).

Getting to the MacDonnell Ranges
To get to the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges, head south from Alice Springs through the Heavitree Gap, and onto the Ross Highway, which is sealed for around 50 miles. To get to the Western MacDonnell Ranges, take Namatjira Drive off Larapinta Drive, which is sealed all the way to Glen Helen, 82 miles from Alice Springs

Eastern and Western MacDonnell Ranges
Extending for hundreds of miles either side of Alice Springs, the East and West MacDonnell Ranges offer visitors some stunning scenery coupled with areas of significant Aboriginal interest. The landscape of both ranges is comprised of gorges and rocky cliffs, and the hills are home to a great deal of wildlife. The local Aboriginal legend has it that giant caterpillars called Yeperenye passed through one of the gaps in the escarpment and became the ranges. There is no public transport from Alice Springs into either of the Ranges, so your own transport is necessary, or you can join an organized tour group.

Things to do and see in Hermannsburg and the Finke Gorge National Park
Hermannsburg Historic Precinct: The old Lutheran mission comprises German style farmhouse buildings, which have been fully restored and are open to visitors. The mission now houses a museum and art gallery, and also the renowned Kata-Anga Tea Rooms, which serve excellent food. Fuel and basic provisions are available at the store.

Namatjira House:
Built in 1944 using the same materials and following the same style and techniques used when building the original mission houses nearly a century earlier, this was home to Albert Namatjira and his family, and now houses a small museum and craft outlet.

Finke Gorge National Park: Spanning an area of around 114,000 acres within the James and Krichauff Ranges, at the heart of the Finke Gorge National Park is the Finke River, believed by some geologists to be one of the world’s oldest river systems. The park is renowned for its Palm Valley, home to a wide variety of plants, some of which are unique to the park, and extremely rare. It is after the 3000 or so red cabbage palms that the valley is named – these are ancient remnants from the distant past when all of Central Australia was a lush tropical forest. From Finke Gorge it is around an eight hour journey to Kings Canyon, further into the Red Centre of Australia.

Tnorala (Gosse Bluff): At Gosse Bluff on the Mereenie Loop Road you will find a huge crater, created when a comet fell to earth millions of years ago, leaving a hole 12 miles across. Subsequent erosion around this crater has left a three mile rim, which ascends out of the surrounding flat desert. As well as being of significant scientific interest in the international community, this place is also of huge cultural importance to the Arrernte Aboriginal people

Getting to Hermannsburg and accommodation in Hermannsburg
It is a relatively straightforward journey from Alice Springs to Hermannsburg and on to the Finke Gorge National Park – travel west on Larapinta Drive for approximately 80 miles.

Those wishing to travel onward towards Kings Canyon should note that Hermannsburg is the last fuel stop on this journey.

Only rather basic accommodation is available in Hermannsburg, including a campsite and hostel accommodation. Day Tours from Alice Springs are available if you do not want to stay overnight here. There are also camping facilities in the Finke National Park, notably Palm Valley, and the graphically named Boggy Hole.

Hermannsburg and Finke Gorge National Park
Hermannsburg is an Aboriginal community just over 80 miles to the South West of Alice Springs, off the Mereenie Loop Road, and from it a 4WD trail leads into the Finke Gorge National Park. Hermannsburg is an obviously German name, which comes from the German Lutheran missionary pastors who, in the 1880s set up a mission for the indigenous Arrernte Aboriginal people. Much of the structure of the settlement remains intact today, and is worth a visit.

Hermannsburg’s most famous son is the artist Albert Namatjira, whose work is displayed in galleries in Alice Springs and further afield, and whose house, a mile or so west of the mission, is open to visitors. Hermannsburg was also home to Ted Strehlow, who is famous for his research into the lives and culture of Aboriginal people in this region.

The land upon which Hermannsburg stands is restricted Aboriginal land, but visitors do not need permits to visit here, though permits are needed for travel on the Mereenie Loop Road. The Finke Gorge National Park starts just seven miles from Hermannsburg, and its most famous landmark is Palm Valley, one of the prime attractions west of Alice Springs – exploration of this area demands a 4WD vehicle.

Accommodation in Alice Springs
There is accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets in Alice Springs, including a number of camping grounds, though all of these are at least a mile or two from town. There are also plenty of backpacker hostels. Self catering options also exist, though these are few and far between. Top end accommodation is mainly found on the east side of the Todd River.

Things to do and see in Alice Springs
Alice Springs Cultural Precinct: Just a short drive (and also a perfectly walkable distance) from the town centre is the Alice Springs Cultural Precinct, which houses some fascinating cultural and historical attractions, including the Museum of Central Australia (natural history, Aboriginal culture, and an exhibition of meteorites), and the Albert Namatiira Gallery (a prolific and renowned indigenous artist from Hermannsburg, whose paintings of the MacDonnell Ranges are well known), as well as displays of performing and visual arts, the history of the European settlement of the region and its natural history.

It is also home to the Strehlow Research Centre, which showcases the work of the late Professor Ted Strehlow, who from the 1930s researched and documented the culture of the indigenous Arrernte Aboriginal people of Central Australia. The centre houses many Aboriginal spirit items which were entrusted to Strehlow by the Aboriginal people when it became apparent to them that many of their traditions were coming under threat – these however cannot be viewed by visitors (indeed, by women generally, and only by initiated men), so are kept in a vault. Strehlow’s work though is on display.

Royal Flying Doctors Service: An Outback institution, the Royal Flying Doctors Service started in Alice Springs in 1939, and was the very first airborne medical service anywhere in the world. The working base is located close to the town centre, and a visit here includes a guided tour, and interactive museum and an audio-visual presentation.
 
Alice Springs Overland Telegraph Station: This is the reason for the existence of Alice Springs, and as such should be on any visitor’s itinerary for a stay in the town. Just a couple of miles north of the modern town of Alice Springs, the Alice Springs Telegraph Station was where the original settlement was established.

The station itself is the best preserved of the twelve that originally were dotted across the Outback between Adelaide and Darwin, carrying messages between the two, and linking Australia with the outside world, via the underwater cable that ran from Darwin to Java. The telegraph was operational right up until the 1930s, and today the buildings are open to the public and house artefacts and images of a bygone era. Guided tours are available. Close by are the original Alice Springs, a popular spot for swimming and picnicking.

ANZAC Hill: A climb (or drive) to the top of ANZAC Hill will be rewarded with a panoramic view of the town of Alice Springs and it surrounds. There is a monument at the top of the hill in honour of those who have defended Australia in conflicts over the years. There is also a war museum at the base of the hill.

School Of The Air: Broadcasting to children living in remote areas of the Outback of the Northern Territory, the Alice Springs School of the Air has a “classroom” of pupils that covers over 0.8 million square miles! This was the first School of the Air, though others soon followed in its wake. Visitors can hear live broadcasts (depending on time of visit).

Todd Mall Galleries:
There are numerous galleries along the Todd Mall showcasing the artwork of many indigenous artists from Central Australia, including art from the communities of Utopia and Papunya Tula. Well worth a visit, and you might even meet the artists themselves.

National Road Transport Hall of Fame
: A must for any transport enthusiast, the National Road Transport Hall of Fame houses a brilliant collection of vehicles, including the first motorized road train in the world, a Model T Ford, various military vehicles, steam engines and photographs of all manner of vehicles.

National Pioneer Women's Hall Of Fame:
A tribute to all women who battled convention and stereotyping to become the first women in their chosen professions, the National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame includes many photographs and other memorabilia. The Women of the Heart exhibition showcases the women who were instrumental in the pioneer history of Central Australia, and was founded by Molly Clark, who owns the remote Old Andado Station.

Alice Springs Desert Park:
Just over a mile out of central Alice Springs, along the Larapinta Drive lies the award-winning Alice Springs Desert Park, a superb wildlife park situated in the foothills of the MacDonnell Ranges. The 1300 hectare park provides a fascinating insight into life in the arid zones of Central Australia, and displays the different ecosystems and their relationship with the traditional Aboriginal landowners. There are walk-through enclosures, interpretative displays and an introductory film. Many of the unique and endangered plans and animal species can be found here, as well as aviaries and a brilliant nocturnal house. There are also bird of prey displays and ranger talks throughout the day.

Olive Pink Botanic Gardens: Founded in 1956 by the anthropologies Olive Pink, who campaigned for Aboriginal rights and is buried in the Alice Springs Cemetery, the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens has a collection of native Central Australian plants that are typical to the 300 mile area around Alice Springs. From the Gardens you can also climb to the top of Meyers Hill, a registered sacred site to the Arrernte people, for a great view over the town

Alice Springs Reptile Centre:
This is the largest display of reptiles in the whole of the Northern Territory, and here you can interact with snakes, lizards, and goannas.

Frontier Camel Farm: A few miles out of Alice is the Frontier Camel Farm, where you can try your hand at riding one of these so called “ships of the desert”. Before the railway came to Central Australia, camels were the main form of transport, brought over to Australia by the Afghan Cameleers.

Hot Air Ballooning: This is a popular excursion from Alice Springs – most flights take place at sunrise, as the view of the MacDonnell Ranges as the sun comes up is quite breathtaking. A typical flight will take you over the Outback where you will see kangaroos, vast areas of scrub lands and some of the enormous cattle stations that are dotted across the Outback.

Alice Springs
Alice Springs is a compact town, bordered on one side by the Todd River and on the other by the Stuart Highway, with Anzac Hill lying to the north and Stuart Terrace to the south. Most accommodation, dining and shopping options lie within this area.

The town, such as it was, was originally established a couple of miles south of the telegraph station, built in 1871, but grew to service the demands of the miners who flocked to the region upon the discovery of gold, and later the farmers who set up vast cattle stations, some the size of small European countries, in the surrounding area.

Despite its remoteness, Alice Springs has much to offer the visitor, including fine restaurants, a lively nightlife, some brilliant events, and a rich culture and heritage, evident in the many tourist attractions the town boasts. Any tour of the town is best started at Anzac Hill, a short but steep climb, but one which affords great views of the town and the surrounding area. Alice Springs has a rich Aboriginal culture – the traditional landowners, the Arrernte people, have numerous sacred sites around the area, several of which are in the Cultural Precinct, just a short distance from the town centre.

Things to see and do in the Simpson Desert
Rainbow Valley Nature Park: This is a small park, just 14 miles off the Stuart Highway, 47 miles south of Alice Springs. The main attraction of the park, nestled in the James Ranges, is the sandstone bluff which has bands of coloured rock which light up spectacularly in the evening sunshine, or after heavy rain.

Chambers Pillar: This is a renowned landmark in the desert, a 50 metre high sandstone column which was used as a navigational landmark by the early pioneers finding their way through the desert. You can even see some early graffiti left by the 19th Century explorers. En route to Chambers Pillar it is well worth stopping off at Ewaninga Rock Carvings Conservation Reserve, home to many rock carvings and petroglyphs which tell some of the stories of the beliefs held by the indigenous Arrernte people.

Santa Teresa: It is possible to visit some of the small Aboriginal communities within the Simpson Desert, one of which is Santa Teresa, home to around 500 Arrernte Aboriginal people. You will be able to visit rock art sites nearby.
Titjikala Art Centre: This art centre is in a desert community and tours (with permits) are available. The centre is owned and managed by an Aboriginal corporation and it is possible to buy the artwork on display, including carvings, silk paintings, jewellery, batik and paintings

Simpson Desert

As the Tanami Desert stretches north from Alice Springs towards the Kimberley Region of Western Australia, so the Simpson Desert stretches south towards the border with South Australia and beyond. It is possible to sample some of the attractions of the desert on a day trip from Alice Springs, as many of them are located on the extreme edges of the desert, but there is plenty more to see if you travel further into it. Journeys to many of the attractions require 4WD vehicles.



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